Vintage has begun, and for once in Central Otago we do not have everything on a plate. Usually we are spared untimely rainfall during the growing season. Warm wet conditions are more likely to be seen in the costal Northern parts. Fruit is generally picked on flavour and balance alone.
Well it seems even here some years you have to earn your keep. We have been keeping a very close watch on our vineyards, with so many conditions contributing to picking decisions. Bunch and canopy health can change rapidly. Bunches are quite large (thus necessitating hard crop thinning); and, as ripeness approaches, some shrivelling has appeared in places, and sporadically around the region, powdery mildew and botrytis.
None of this has been anything like ruinous for us because we have been careful to limit yields and expose our fruit early. That is very good news, and one of the reasons why trusted providers can produce well in challenging vintages. 100 tonnes in, and we have some lovely Pinot ferments now dry, some early Pinot Gris and Riesling showing lovely intensity. However, next week we pick China Terrace and School House vineyards, and their quality will decide our vintage’s quality, as simple as that. Flavours are really good so here is hoping we have a great week.
For the lovers of Le Maitre and Gibbston fruit, I am very encouraged about the quality of Gibbston. There is real flavour ripeness and intensity, with excellent lignifications of stems and quality fruit condition. We are making some 40 tonnes of Pinot Noir from Gibbston this year as recently amalgamated vineyards enter the fold. We will be making an additional Single Vineyard Gibbston wine from the close planted Glenlee Vineyard. It is very smart and will be a worthy cohort of Le Maitre.
Vintage does bring people together from around the world, and this year we have Scott Clarkson from South Africa. He has a South African work ethic, and a love of murdering fish (sorry, fishing). Whilst Kiwis, Aussies and South Africans seem to have a broad commonality in temperament and personality, there is no one at Gibbston Valley quite like our Indian waiter TJ. So India won the World Cup last night, and whilst he is irrepressibly cheerful, it is fair to say he is no different from normal. The great thing is, unlike the former three countries, the Indians do not need to fuel up to get wildly excited.
So give me some of what he’s on, and let’s kick on through the rest of vintage!
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